It hasn't taken me long to once again pick up the pen, so to speak. Upon reading part one, I was left with a slight feeling of unease as to what I'd written. It seemed overly on the negative side. I'm guessing that some of you must feel the same, while others may not agree with me on my interpretation. Regardless of your viewpoint, I am going to write now of some of the amazing things I experienced, city by city.
New Delhi : January 15, 2011 - January 18, 2011
On my first visit to Delhi I was in truth a little culture shocked, as anyone would be. It only took me around a day though, before I was navigating the streets with ease, bartering for every purchase and feeling generally at ease with the ebb and flow of humanity. On that first day, I oriented myself to Pahar Ganj, the district of Delhi I was staying in, a mecca for backpackers from every corner of the world. Not overly big, yet highly populated, Pahar Ganj is a market like none other in India - anything and everything is on display and available for those who are willing to invest the time to search for whatever it is they desire. I explored all of the hidden alleyway, all of the little markets and was most amazed by the vegetable, fruit and spice markets (like this is surprise to anyone). On subsequent days, I spent many hours walking the streets of New Delhi. What you need to know is that I have an amazing sense of direction and my near eidetic memory makes it near to impossible for me to get lost. Knowing myself as well as I do, I made my way, on foot on the second day to the Red Fort, an impossing ediface housing some very beautiful tombs. The fort itself is used every year for presidential speeches during India's Independance Day and is Delhi's most recognizable landmark, with the possible exception of India Gate, which I walked to from PG also, en route to Raj Ghat, the memorial site where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated. All told in those days visiting Delhi, it's probable that I covered 50-60 kilometers on foot, without once getting lost, I might add. Anyone who knows me well will know I love to walk, everywhere, whenever possible. On these walks I would sample local food prepared by street vendors, stop for chai and talk to the locals of the area and generally went on a feast of camera snapping goodness! These first few days in India were more about acclimation than they were about sight seeing, although I did a fair share of that (Spice Market, Chandni Chowk, Red Fort, Raj Ghat, India Gate, Connaught Place, Pahar Ganj, Karol Baugh).
Sadly, my time in Delhi was not to last forever - and there was so much more I wanted to see but just didn't have the time to visit. Those sights would come later in my trip. On this visit, I was most amazed by the sounds, especially in the morning as the city would awaken to the various prayers offered to the sunrise by the Muslim and Hindu population. The piercing cries of eagles, who rode the morning thermals as the sun was rising as another amazing sound. There was also the various cries from the early morning vendors, selling chai tea, newspapers and other assorted items. The first rickshaw horns of the day, while penetrating, were also something that I now find that I deeply miss. And the food, of the food... so many different things to sample, so many things to savour! In particular was the chipati stand - chipatis are like soft tortillas . The guy making them amazed me with his grace and speed. You could tell he'd been doing it for yeas - he made it seem effortless. Smack, smack, smack - he would shape the dough into shape, and then he'd stick them to the sides of the clay tandoor oven used to bake these amazing flat breads. And he did parathas as well, which I always ate stufed with paneer (homemade cheese) and butter. The food was incredible, cheap and not once did I get ill from eating it. I was addicted to fried potatoes as well - like homefries, they were seasoned with salt, chili powders, lemon juice and for the daring a green chili sauce (it was sweet but spicy). I ate there quite often... many times a day when possible!
And I met some amazing people there, local and traveler alike! Peter, a Danish guy I met at the airport, was a great person to have for the first few hours in Pahar Ganj. We met in the smoking lounge in the airport, before clearing customs. We both we heading to PG, so we shared a cab. This was Pete's 17th trip to India, although he was only in Delhi for the day (leaving for Goa the next day). We hung for most of the early morning until we both headed to our respective hotels. In those hours though, he gave me a lot of useful information on how to navigate life in India for the extended traveler. His information came in handy on my occasions than once, that is for sure. Without that chance encounter, I don't know how I would have managed the first day or two.
I also met some amazing guys from the UK, who were also heading to Goa. Invariably it seems, everyone heads to Goa. Its no wonder it's dead now - too commercial. Anyways, we all hung out for an afternoon and had many small, but funny adventures - although at the time, it wasn't very fun for me! LoL! You see, I left my backpack (cameras, wallet, passport, money, etc) at a restaurant, where I'd met them. It took me a half hour to realize I'd left it behind... I had to run 1 kilometer to get back there to claim my bag, which thankfully, the owner found and held for me. And this was only on day two! How is that for integrity? We'd expect nothing less here in Canada, but in India? I expected it to be gone, or at the least, empty. Talk about stress! Now, it is funny as hell. I tell you though, at the time, I learned a very valuable lesson! Thank god though, integrity of the owner aside, that I had cable locks on my bag to prevent stray hands from searching my gear. All was accounted for, so no harm done...
I also met the Sadhu on that day after the lads left for Goa. He knew WAY too much for my own comfort. As with everything he told me, I took it with a grain of salt, but made note of it all in my journal. And as I said, going back over it all, everything he said, came to pass. And no, it wasn't just some usual stuff that could be said to anyone. It was very detailed and very personalized to me. Thoe of you who know me well, will have already heard of all of this, but trust me, the guy wasn't a sham-artist. He didn't want anything from me, other than my time and my sincere willingness to listen. He read me like a book... a frightening prospect. But one I am glad to have endured. I guess in a way, it helped make what would happen to me in Varanasi easier (you'll get that later, likely in part 18, lol).
I also sampled my first Indian Macdonald's there! A Chicken Maharaja Mac - literally a Big Mac with chicken instead of beef. And curry sauce instead of 1000 island dressing. Yummy! And only $2.50 for the combo... I know I know. I was in India to eat good Indian food - but I couldn't resist, and you know, it's the only place in the world to get such a sandwich. Excuses, excuses...
The most amazing thing in Delhi was that I learned to simply accept things for what they were, without trying to mold things into my perspective. I learned to simply go with the flow and take things as they were, which is not an easy thing for me to do, well, not then.
Alright, I've burned myself out for the day... next entry I'll tell you about the wonders of Rishikesh, home of Yoga!
New Delhi : January 15, 2011 - January 18, 2011
On my first visit to Delhi I was in truth a little culture shocked, as anyone would be. It only took me around a day though, before I was navigating the streets with ease, bartering for every purchase and feeling generally at ease with the ebb and flow of humanity. On that first day, I oriented myself to Pahar Ganj, the district of Delhi I was staying in, a mecca for backpackers from every corner of the world. Not overly big, yet highly populated, Pahar Ganj is a market like none other in India - anything and everything is on display and available for those who are willing to invest the time to search for whatever it is they desire. I explored all of the hidden alleyway, all of the little markets and was most amazed by the vegetable, fruit and spice markets (like this is surprise to anyone). On subsequent days, I spent many hours walking the streets of New Delhi. What you need to know is that I have an amazing sense of direction and my near eidetic memory makes it near to impossible for me to get lost. Knowing myself as well as I do, I made my way, on foot on the second day to the Red Fort, an impossing ediface housing some very beautiful tombs. The fort itself is used every year for presidential speeches during India's Independance Day and is Delhi's most recognizable landmark, with the possible exception of India Gate, which I walked to from PG also, en route to Raj Ghat, the memorial site where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated. All told in those days visiting Delhi, it's probable that I covered 50-60 kilometers on foot, without once getting lost, I might add. Anyone who knows me well will know I love to walk, everywhere, whenever possible. On these walks I would sample local food prepared by street vendors, stop for chai and talk to the locals of the area and generally went on a feast of camera snapping goodness! These first few days in India were more about acclimation than they were about sight seeing, although I did a fair share of that (Spice Market, Chandni Chowk, Red Fort, Raj Ghat, India Gate, Connaught Place, Pahar Ganj, Karol Baugh).
Sadly, my time in Delhi was not to last forever - and there was so much more I wanted to see but just didn't have the time to visit. Those sights would come later in my trip. On this visit, I was most amazed by the sounds, especially in the morning as the city would awaken to the various prayers offered to the sunrise by the Muslim and Hindu population. The piercing cries of eagles, who rode the morning thermals as the sun was rising as another amazing sound. There was also the various cries from the early morning vendors, selling chai tea, newspapers and other assorted items. The first rickshaw horns of the day, while penetrating, were also something that I now find that I deeply miss. And the food, of the food... so many different things to sample, so many things to savour! In particular was the chipati stand - chipatis are like soft tortillas . The guy making them amazed me with his grace and speed. You could tell he'd been doing it for yeas - he made it seem effortless. Smack, smack, smack - he would shape the dough into shape, and then he'd stick them to the sides of the clay tandoor oven used to bake these amazing flat breads. And he did parathas as well, which I always ate stufed with paneer (homemade cheese) and butter. The food was incredible, cheap and not once did I get ill from eating it. I was addicted to fried potatoes as well - like homefries, they were seasoned with salt, chili powders, lemon juice and for the daring a green chili sauce (it was sweet but spicy). I ate there quite often... many times a day when possible!
And I met some amazing people there, local and traveler alike! Peter, a Danish guy I met at the airport, was a great person to have for the first few hours in Pahar Ganj. We met in the smoking lounge in the airport, before clearing customs. We both we heading to PG, so we shared a cab. This was Pete's 17th trip to India, although he was only in Delhi for the day (leaving for Goa the next day). We hung for most of the early morning until we both headed to our respective hotels. In those hours though, he gave me a lot of useful information on how to navigate life in India for the extended traveler. His information came in handy on my occasions than once, that is for sure. Without that chance encounter, I don't know how I would have managed the first day or two.
I also met some amazing guys from the UK, who were also heading to Goa. Invariably it seems, everyone heads to Goa. Its no wonder it's dead now - too commercial. Anyways, we all hung out for an afternoon and had many small, but funny adventures - although at the time, it wasn't very fun for me! LoL! You see, I left my backpack (cameras, wallet, passport, money, etc) at a restaurant, where I'd met them. It took me a half hour to realize I'd left it behind... I had to run 1 kilometer to get back there to claim my bag, which thankfully, the owner found and held for me. And this was only on day two! How is that for integrity? We'd expect nothing less here in Canada, but in India? I expected it to be gone, or at the least, empty. Talk about stress! Now, it is funny as hell. I tell you though, at the time, I learned a very valuable lesson! Thank god though, integrity of the owner aside, that I had cable locks on my bag to prevent stray hands from searching my gear. All was accounted for, so no harm done...
I also met the Sadhu on that day after the lads left for Goa. He knew WAY too much for my own comfort. As with everything he told me, I took it with a grain of salt, but made note of it all in my journal. And as I said, going back over it all, everything he said, came to pass. And no, it wasn't just some usual stuff that could be said to anyone. It was very detailed and very personalized to me. Thoe of you who know me well, will have already heard of all of this, but trust me, the guy wasn't a sham-artist. He didn't want anything from me, other than my time and my sincere willingness to listen. He read me like a book... a frightening prospect. But one I am glad to have endured. I guess in a way, it helped make what would happen to me in Varanasi easier (you'll get that later, likely in part 18, lol).
I also sampled my first Indian Macdonald's there! A Chicken Maharaja Mac - literally a Big Mac with chicken instead of beef. And curry sauce instead of 1000 island dressing. Yummy! And only $2.50 for the combo... I know I know. I was in India to eat good Indian food - but I couldn't resist, and you know, it's the only place in the world to get such a sandwich. Excuses, excuses...
The most amazing thing in Delhi was that I learned to simply accept things for what they were, without trying to mold things into my perspective. I learned to simply go with the flow and take things as they were, which is not an easy thing for me to do, well, not then.
Alright, I've burned myself out for the day... next entry I'll tell you about the wonders of Rishikesh, home of Yoga!
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