Farewell to Varanasi

So today I leave crazy Varanasi to go back to New Delhi (Pahar Ganj) for the last few days of my trip. Not sure how I feel about that to be honest. I've gotten quite used to being alone and on the road all the time. I'm worried I won't be able to settle down again. I've got the "voyage" in my blood now and I can't see how domestic life is going to suit me.

I definately know how I will be spending my next batch of vacation time, for sure. I'm thinking Mexico, backpacks and a fistfull of dollars - Cancun to Tulum for 2 or 3 weeks. Any takers???? If not, no worries - as I've said, travelling alone, been there and done that.

Now, Varanasi, you chaotic, shameless place! You've destroyed me forever. Babas, Sadhus and dead things floating in the river. And lets not forget the ever-present stench of burning corpses! That being said, I did everything I came here to do. Do I feel any different? I'm not sure. Things are certainly quieter inside but some pains just won't go away. While I feel very alive, there's a small part of me that knows something else has died. What exactly it is, I haven't been able to figure out.

What I do know is that I now have a clean slate, and that what comes next for me is of my own doing from this point forward. I've shunted the past pains into the Ganges and kissed the last goodbye to all that goes with it. One thing I've come to see here, and to understand is that while I may have loved and lost, the loss isn't mine. That's the true lesson I learned here... and now I go to shoot some filler video. Maybe of me playing with another cobra or something.

Safety went out the window and hasn't returned. Ladies and gentlemen - Mr 50/50 is back!

Varanasi - Day Two

Not much to say here... Kamil & Marie left today for Darjeeling (my two travel friends from Orccha, that I hooked up with again here in Varanasi). I went with them to the train to get my ticket to Delhi (Feb 28 @ 1:45pm) at a cost of 294 rupees, and a 18 hours ride.

Really bummed out today. The Varanasi portion of this trip was already in high gear (with the things I was doing for my own mental health), but now its just been added to. I think I've just developed a hatred for Facebook. And if the things I was doing here were not difficult enough, compounded with what has happened today, I'm still not sure where I will be staying when I get back to QC. This is only 1 week from today - yes, stressed doesn't even begin to cover it. And I'm fucking broke on top of it all (I've got enough to finish the trip).

I wonder if my mood and acceptance of todays news is the result of the two Bhang Lassi's I had last night. Don't think so, because I feel fine and have all day. No, this is definately the result of the news...

Anyways, enough of that shit. I got other things to do here and I can't devote any more energy on that - or I will go crazy, seriously.

EDIT: Here's some Day Two photos...

Kamil, Marie and I for that ONE last chai chai chai!

Boats lining up to watch the Ganga Aarti from the Ganges

Ganga Aarti performers

Thats it, I got nothing else for you today... tomorrow, nothing. Tomorrow I culminate this trip. Tomorrow I have a very long talk with myself and say goodbye to the past. Tomorrow is going to kick my ass...

Fuck it

I know you want some photos... and just because I did some VERY life or death stuff today. Stupid stuff, but the thrill of it all was incredible - especially trying to photograph the cremation...

This is a real cobra

This is me with that cobra around my neck

Guru-ji has the secret to eternal happiness!

The Ghats of Varanasi

Yes, a body burning!

Holy Varanasi = Holy Shit!!!

Friends, I have finally made it to the end of my voyage - I am in the holiest city in Hinduism, Varanasi. This has been what this whole trip has been about, getting me here to this place. I dont have any photos to share with you, as I just arrived last night at 10:30pm and now (9:30am) I am just acclimating to the madness that is Varanasi.

Varanasi is unapologeticially shameless, chaotic and in your face. It takes no prisoners. I've already broken down once this morning, which I guess is good - its why Im here. The ghats are incredible! Theres an amazing mixture of pilgrims, sadhus, tourists, babas, cows, goats, dogs and chickens! Its incredible to watch the boats plying the water, ferrying tourists and pilgrims on their way up and down the Ganges. The colours of all of the passersby is astounding - there's so much for the eye to catch. Today is explore day... tomorrow...

Listen, I've got many things I need to attend to here, and I may not be back online for a few days. But I don't want any of you to worry - I am fine, healthy and ready to face whatever challenges this place has in store for me.

Khajuarho

This is likely the most openly corrupt city I've ever been in - no lie. The people are VERY open about dealing in drugs and weapons. The police are on the take and do nothing to stop any of the local crime. On top of it all, everyone thinks they are the "be-all, end-all" when it comes to sex. The people here have no problem telling you about all the people they've screwed or taken advantage of. It's worse than Mumbai, which while likely the most corrupt city in India, is not as overt about it as Khajuarho.

That being said, the temples are amazing! The city itself leaves a lot to be desired. Its built for no purpose than to separate you from your rupees. Even the original village is nothing more than a warren of small streets filled with people asking (all the time) for handouts of money.

Suffice it to say that I am not impressed with the city itself. But the temples... the workmanship is second to none. That is, where the original stonework still exists. There are many sculptures on the temples that are replacements, and modern ones at that.

I really don't see the point in dragging it out... here's some photos.

And now... screw Jenny Craig. All you need is 2 months in India to lose all that excess weight!

LoL! Okay... thats it! See you all in Varanasi, the most holy city in Hinuism! And the craziest too!

Orccha

All I can say about Orccha is that it is beautiful - it lived up to my every expectation (and I had high hopes for it, its been one of the top sites for me to visit). Its a small town of about 10,000 people or so and you can walk across town in 5-7 minutes. Lovely place, full of lovely people and amazing temples and palaces.

I discovered some candy here that I just cant get enough of call Mango Bites. Theyre like Jolly Ranchers, kinda, but sweet green mango flavour; I bought 40 of them for the road! LoL!

I also rediscovered Pakoda, an amazing fried dumpling type food make from flour, egg, cilantro, green chillis and onions (curry too). Theyre a great snack, especially with hot sauce! Yummy... and 10 rupees per 100 grams makes it almost a meal in an of itself.

I finally got caught up on my rest in Orccha, which was nice after the ordeal of coordinating a 3 day tranvel plan from Hampi to Orccha.... feel much much better.

Photos???

Raj Mahal - The Maharaja's Palace

Me on top of the Raj Mahal - minus the usual hat!

Royal Centotaphs (Burial Tombs)

An honest to god vulture on top of the Centotaphs

The centotaphs from across the river

Thats it for today... Im in Khajuarho today, so am going to go soon to visit the Kama Sutra temples... cheers!

Palolem, Hampi, Mumbai, Delhi and Orccha

Been a hellish few days of non-stop travel! I feel nasty dirty and need a shave hardcore. Check it out...

Day 1: Leave Goa to go to Hampi
Day 2: Leave Hampi to go back to Goa
Day 3: Leave Goa to go to Mumbai
Day 4: Fly to Delhi and take a train to Jhansi & rickshaw to Orccha

Crazy... I feel like Ive been on the road forever. But that part of the trip is over. Now its time to relax and visit beautiful Orccha, Khajuarho and Varanasi, with stops in Sarnath and maybe Kushinagar. The last two mark 2 of the 4 spiritual pilgramage sites for following the life of the Buddha, Sarnath were Buddha gave his first sermon and Kushinigar, where the Buddha died and was cremated. Quite eager to see these holy places, since I've been seeing so many of them.

Palolem was awesome - I miss it soooo much right now. But Hampi was worth leaving Goa for and so far, Im really enjoying Orccha. It was very nice to stop over in Delhi for a few hours too. Some of the Kashmiri vendors even remembered me, which was nice!

So, I have two weeks left on the adventure ~ not sure how I feel about that. Im kinda stressed out a little bit thinking about how to re-adjust to life back home since Ive been on the road for so long. And there's all those habits Ive picked up on the way that may not be the best things socially for me to do. And then there's the whole, you know, where am I going to live while I rebuild my bank account and look for an apartment. These things are really playing havoc with my brain right now, and only because I know the trip is almost done. Anyways, Im here to see some beautiful palaces and temples and by god thats what Im going to worry about for now. That and a shave from a local barber (yes, my beard is too thick to consider shaving myself with a dull razor).

Oh, and not only am I out of Excel, but Ive just drank my last Lemonade and Tang packets...

Okay, enough rambling... here's your photo update:

Helping to wash Lakshmi, the Temple Elephant

Posing with the Sadhus

The Temple Bazaar at Hampi

The Abandsoned Bazaar at Hampi (kinda Jungle Bookish, huh?)

Thats it for now... more in the coming days. 

Palolem - Day Three

Today I went hiking on Palolem Island, affectionately known around here as Monkey Island. At least this one was trailed, top to bottom. Still, it felt adventurous, since I was the only person on the island. I saw many cool little critters, but was too slow with my camera to capture them on film (skinks (small lizards), blue parrots and some monkeys). The few at the far size of the island was incredible - while there I watched a mated pair of eagles flying in and out of their nest (which I couldn't see). I did manage to get a nice photo of the male perched in a tree.

Later in the day, I went to visit the next beach down the coast, Patnam Beach. It was pretty much the same as Palolem, but more calm - vendors are not allowed on the beach there. Still, it was nice to see more than just my beach. Today (Day Four), I may go the other way, past the island, to see Butterfly Beach - not sure yet. For now I am taking two fellow travellers over to Palolem Island.

Last night I went for dinner in an Italian place to have pizza (it was great, although WAY overpriced). While eating, a cow walked into the restaurant, and no-one tried to get it out - they really do revere the cow here!

Thats about it - how about some of those promised photos???

Palolem Day 2 Photos

Lagoon, just before entering the mountain jungles

Some monkeys avoiding the noon sun

The tarantula nest I almost stepped in

A shot of the countryside around Palolem

Palolem Day Three Photos

Termite Mound on Palolem Island

The male eagle on Palolem Island

Patnam Beach

He just couldn't get a seat!!!

Thats it for the Goa updates today! I've already checked out of my hut and my bags are being stored for the day. Later, I'll make my way back to Madgaon to catch my train to Hampi first thing in the morning. Yeck, another night sleeping in the train station (at least its free, and Im all about the free shit), likely on the floor, like everyone else, lol! See you in Hampi - land of 1,600 year old temples!

Palolem, Goa - Day Two

Well, I wanted to play Indiana Joe a little more so went trekking into the mountains to the west of the beach - just for the sake of a few photos of the beach. Yeah... the trail I had been following died rather soon after I got into the jungle, so I had to make my own. I should have listened to my instincts and gone back out and found another way in. But no... to me, it was about the journey and adventure. The near stampede of wild oxen, the 1,000,000 bites from midges and mosquitos in the mangroves and the attack of the fire ants on numerous occasions were worth it in my mind - not. It took me three hours to get in and find a way back! I did see some really cool shit though and even had the state of mind to shoot a few pics. The tarantula nest I almost stepped in was cool - LoL! Aude is SOOO going to fucking kill me. Especially since I didnt learn my lesson and did it again today on the island to the west of the beach (a much better excursion with no adventures).

Photos to follow soon... Ive got to go to another beach for the day and the people I'm hanging with are itching to go now! LoL!

Palolem, Goa - Day One

All I can say is wow... Ive only been here a few hours and I already love the chill vibe, the long beach and the beach hut Im staying in (with requisite mosquito net!). Not much to say really... went swimming in the Arabian Ocean (clean as hell), its around 40 degrees right now, and I've got some photos already! Lots of smaller beaches and stuff to explore in the area, but thats for tomorrow - Im exhausted from the transfer from Mumbai.

Like this needs any intro

Me, with the beach behind me!

Palolem Beach!

More to follow! Stay tuned!!!

Mumbai - Its Bollywood Baby!

Oh yeah! I am in the home of Shah Rukh Khan, my favourite Bollywood actor - and do you think I can find any of his movies for sale on the street??? No way - the pirates of Mumbai will not touch his movies, which in a way is rather great - theyre supporting their favourite actor. And SRK (as he's called) is HUGE here in India - more than any actor I can think of in the USA or Canada. I'm going to try again this morning before catching my train to Goa.

I've been really impressed with Mumbai to be honest. At first I was completely overwhelmed by its size. And that comes from someone who grew up in Toronto, which takes an hour to cross on the highway. Mumbai is likely 2 times the size or more, and has WAY more people in it than a 2x's multiple. The streets here are BUSY!

The pollution is kinda rough. Too many cars and boats in the harbor. Hell, there's oil refineries in the harbour too. They even have some huge operation on Elephanta Island, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You lose detailed sight of the harbourfront (from a boat) at about 0.5 km away. Which tells you that I went to Elephanta - and totally felt like I was in some cut scene from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom! LoL! And for those of you who really know me, that is saying something. Want some photos of Mumbai now??? I know you do... and for the cave temple photos, understand one thing: everything was hand carved from the rock. NONE of it was added later...

Gateway to India & Taj Mahal Hotel - Colaba, Mumbai

Not the Lord of the Rings, this is Elephanta Island's main cave

Entrance to the main cave

A wall carving of Kali

A lingum - with wishes placed around it - yes I made one too!

CST - Mumbai's main train terminal

Thats it for now... still have a few hours here though, so may have more later. In the meantime, be healthy and warm my friends and family. I know I am (35 degrees today - lol!).

Udaipur - Photos Update

So, I'm in Mumbai at the moment (that post will follow) and since they have working computers here (you'd hope so anyways ... its Mumbai!), I figured it was best to get some updates done before I leave for the beaches of Goa and the Temples of Hampi, later today actually...

Lake Palace Hotel - VERY expensive to stay here

Hanuman Ghat Hotels

Sunset over the mountains of Lake Pichola

Lake Pichola at dusk

Alright... next update is for Mumbai.

Udaipur - Day 2

I'm currently in Udaipur, reputed to be India's most romantic city. Me, I don't see it... instead I see a steady stream of gang types, harrassing innocent tourists for money, cigarettes, etc. I even had one person yesterday try to intimidate me into stopping writing in my notebook on the ghats at Lake Pichola. Not cool...

Anyways, no photos today. This cafe wants to scan my USB key, and Im not sure Im okay with that... something seemed off with the idea of it. So... you'll all have to wait until I get to Mumbai, for which I leave tomorrow on the train. 950km... good thing its an overnight train - just hope I can get some sleep! Mumbai and Bollywood baby! Lets hope theyre ready for me! LoL!

Im looking forward to it, to be honest, maybe a little too much! Bollywood, CST, Colaba, Gateway of India and Elephanta Island. Not to forget the slums! And then 2 days later... Goa at Palolem beach!!! J'ai hate!

I've decided to visit Hampi after all, since I'll be in southern Goa, which is the best train connection to Hospet and Hampi. I can't come all this way and not see it - 1000 year old temples in the middle of the mountains??? Oh fuck yeah, Indiana Joe is on the way!!!

See you in Mumbai friends!!!

Jaisalmer, Bikaner, Deshnok and Jodhpur

Lots has happened since the last post, and as you can see, I've been on a whirlwind of city hopping! Literally from Jaisalmer on the 2nd to Jodhpur on the 4th... and I'm exhausted! LoL! But I've got tonnes of good photos! Stopped in Bikaner for a day to go see the Karni Mata temple in Deshnok (the rat temple). It was as fucked up as I thought it would be, and you KNOW I took lots of photos there. Even managed to sneak some video in too!

So, it's the 5th and tomorrow I leave Jodhpur for Udaipur - really looking forward to it. I'm about a week and a half away from being in Goa (Beaches baby!!!), with a stop in Mumbai (Bollywood baby!!!) for a few days. Gotta stop there for a transfer on the train anyways, so may as well stop for a few days and visit Elephanta Island and see the CST train station - maybe go find Shah Rukh Khan and get an autograph (I wish!).

The weather in the desert is really agreeable this time of the year! It may be in the low 30's, but its dry so not too bad. A week from now it'll be in the 40's and humid as hell - thank god the ocean will be right there! Anyways, time for some photos!!!

Jaisalmer - Sundown from Sunset Hill

Jaisalmer - Happy Cookies from the Bhang Shop

Bikaner - Teaching english in a primary school!

Deshnok - Karni Mata Temple

Deshnok - A rat sleeping in the middle of a gate!

Jodhpur - Yes, live, free roaming parrots!

The Jodhpur Fort - Amazing fort to tour!

Jodhpur - Me on top of the ramparts looking at Blue City

Thats it for this installment. And yes, Bhang Lassis and cookies were awesome! Too bad they wouldnt let me take pictures or videos in there... I know you can in Varanasi, so I'll do it there. So, see you all in the coming days in Udaipur!